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Irish retailers used Xinjiang cotton despite pledges, relying on flawed certification allowing forced labor into supply chains.
An RTÉ Investigates documentary reveals that major Irish retailers including Penneys, Dunnes Stores, Tesco, and Marks and Spencer sourced cotton fabric in 2024 from Chinese companies linked to Xinjiang, a region where Uyghur Muslims have faced severe human rights abuses, including forced labor.
Despite public pledges to avoid Xinjiang cotton, these retailers relied on the "mass balance" certification method, which allows untraceable mixing of cotton from different sources, making it impossible to confirm the origin of the final product.
Video evidence and corporate records show ongoing operations in Xinjiang, and experts say the system fails to prevent forced labor from entering supply chains.
Better Cotton acknowledges the method does not guarantee cotton is free from Xinjiang.
The report highlights systemic challenges in ensuring ethical sourcing in global fashion networks.
Los minoristas irlandeses usaban algodón de Xinjiang a pesar de las promesas, confiando en una certificación defectuosa que permitía el trabajo forzoso en las cadenas de suministro.